These are random thoughts, I will add more, clarify or feel free to ask more questions. For about 9 years, I have been a year-round transportational cyclist. When I first started, I decided I would quit when it was no longer fun. Despite the absolute deluge that we had today, it is actually much easier to winter cycle than most people think.
Depending on your intensity, there are 5- 10 days a year when it is seriously worth considering an alternative means of transportation or whether it is worth going to that event/ place.
That means about 355 ( give or take) days of cycling!
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WEATHER: I chose to check the weather several times per day.
You should be aware of temperatures, windchill, snow accumulation, wind and times for these conditions.
For example, if it will be -15C and blowing snow with heavy snowfall at night, you may wnat to re-consider biking that night.
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CLOTHING: Dress like you are cross country skiiing. I chose to wear fairly good quality long underwear, top and bottom. Then a layer ( or two) of fleece top and pants. Next is a wind barrier, top and bottom. This also repels water ( slush) and rain.
All tops should open very easily while you are cycling because you will be opening and closing your neck and pit zipper areas constantly.
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You really should be carefully considering your hands, feet and head. You can get frost nip or frost bite and should be aware of the symptoms for the ten days a year that they may affect you.
FEET: I use a layered system of wick -away ( perspiration and wet) thin layer socks, and then a warm layer of socks that dry almost instantly and are good for below zero temperatures. I use light duty hiking boots and heavy duty ones when it get really cold. The heavy duty ones are really important when it goes below -5C. Mine were got at the annual North by North West sale at Western Fairgrounds for 90% off , these are SERIOUS footgear and I never feel any cold ever ( for the first time in my life)
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HANDS: I use a layered system of thin fleece gloves and then a warm thinsulate over-glove ( Canadian Tire), that slips on easily, but has a 3 in elasticized cuff. I bought them 9 years ago and they show no sign of wear yet. Consider adding retroflective stripping later on. Firts thing you do when you get home is to set those gloves over a heater ( you do NOT want wet gloves)
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HEAD: If you wear a helmet, get a bigger size or remove the spacers inside. The best headgear I found is a moderately thin fleece balaclava. It is a simple design that is alot like a flat beanie and then a flat simple piece of fleece across your lower face.
At every intersection you will want to be able to yank that lower section down under your chin and then pull it back up in a couple minutes. You will overheat every time you stop and if you wear glasses they will steam up from your body temperature. An intersection is the most important place to keep your vision clear.
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ROAD CHOICE: I divide roads into three categories. They are class A, B and C. Roads that are " A" are the busiest four lanes or more ( Highbury, Oxford, Wharncliffe, etc). In summer you mostly avoid them, but they may be the most reasonable choice in winter. You need a road that is regularily snowplowed and that the traffic levels will keep the road semi-clear. Roads that are two lane, and are fairly busy ( ie car every 3-5 seconds) and a bus route are Class " B" . This is the mainstay of summer transporational cycling and same for winter. Luckily I live on such a road and when I can look out and see it's condition- it represents most class B roads that you will want to use.
Class C- are roads in subdivisions, especially cresents and circles- I call them the roads to nowhere. You want to avoid these roads in winter if there is any snowfall. You may get stuck and it may take 5-10 times as long to ever get out of them. They are the last plowed and there is not enough traffic to get it down to nice tracks for you ride in. You will ride inthe right hand tire track most of the time.
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RIDING HABITS: Car drivers are not necessarily looking for you. Cycle with that in mind. Wear outer colours that assist in that and extra retroflective and lights on your self and bike.
At intersections you will feel pressure to hurry to convience the motor vehicles. RESIST! It is the area of the road that is most likely to have a collision and worsens in winter due to added polishing of snow, and ice and people accelerating and changing direction. Be slow and purposeful. Allow LOTS of extra time to dress and get to your destination. Try DOUBLE at first or a few test rides before you have any time limits.
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BIKE PREP: You will want more aggressive tread for snow, Ice is rare enough that you do not need to worry about it. Your cables and lock WILL freeze. There are a few alternatives, but do something to prepare now.
Have a few backup plans for alternate transportation for the ten times you may use it. ( ie LTC bus map, schedules, ticket or money, phone number of friends to carpool, taxi money, excuses to not go at all, etc ) -----------------------------
Feel free to ask more questions!
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